Arranging catch ups with your mates can feel like a bit of a task. Finding a date you can both do, identifying the WFH situ, and a part of town, and finally a place where you both want to actually eat.
But it is a good way to occupy your evening, especially because someone recently observed that once you reach your 30s, all social events are actually birthday drinks, to which I offer the counter argument that ‘no! social events are also housewarmings, baby showers, engagement parties and Christmas!’, which isn’t depressing at all.
It’s not that the concept of the mid-week accidental boozy dinner totally goes away when you get past your 20s. But there does come a point in adult life when midweek evenings become watching Netflix, weekends are the domain of Family Events, and catching up with mates is relegated to 10 minutes of rushed speed-dating style Q&As conducted while following the host into kitchens, gardens, toilets, or towards front doors; batting away other guests trying to say goodbye, and trying to find out what they’ve been up to in the two months since you saw them last.
So midweek dinners, then: dinners are the one. A few hours on a Wednesday night to sit down with one or two mates and have conversations that don’t begin with ‘so, what are you doing with yourself these days then?’ or ‘what is it you do again?’. Somewhere nice, but not too spendy. Nothing you’ve got to queue or book ten years ahead for. Just somewhere you can rock up after work, where the food’s decent, a bottle of wine doesn’t cost £30, and the service is included but you don’t really mind because you’re pretty sure the waiter just gave you a cheeky smile. Bobs your uncle, Fanny’s your aunt, everyone’s in bed by 11:30pm.
But the eternal question: where?
1. Caravan, Exmouth Market
You’re pretty much good to eat anywhere on Exmouth Market – but shout out to Caravan in particular because the burrata is delicious, and they’ll almost always find you a seat if there’s just a couple of you if you just walk in on the night. It’s also a bit less shouty than the Kings Cross branch.
I once took not one, but two vegans here for dinner on a Thursday night after an extended happy hour, after which neither were either sober nor, indeed, strictly vegan. One of them did, however, declare this place the best fucking tapas I’ve ever had – and the other one has been here so many times on various dates before that she doesn’t even need to look at the menu any more. It’s great. Low lit little booths, sharing plates, and G&Ts as big as your head. On. The. Strand.
Absolutely feels like you’re walking into a hotel restaurant, but is ten times better than that because the menu is almost entirely dim sum and you can order as little or as much as you want. Me and a mate went here recently after work and it was easy to get a booking, and everything we ate was delicious.
Oh good god, the food in this place. You might have to angle around a bit for a table if there’s more than 3 of you, but it’s a pub, so you can always kill time outside or at the bar. This is a good place if you don’t want interruptions – order at the bar from whatever’s on the blackboard (it’s above the chefs) that day. The pasta is banging, but lots of people also rate the fish and massive steak sandwich. It’s good value, delicious, and because it’s a pub, you can hang around for as long as you like after you’ve eaten.
After Leather Lane’s food market shuts down for the day, Kin’s just there with its Asian Street Food, chilling, waiting. It’s pretty small in there, but the pad thai is excellent and the service is quick. It can get busy, so book in advance.
The best thing about Gallipoli is 1) the mezze and 2) that there’s about 80 (alright, three) branches along Upper Street, so if one’s busy, you can just keep trotting up the road until you find a branch with some spare tables. Stuff your face with hummus and stay there as long as you want.
Mexican tapas is a bit of a minefield in London – and I’m not saying you’d make a proper beeline for this place from south London, but if you find yourself in Dalston in need of good cocktails, very good picky-bits, and chorizo in red wine that genuinely melts when you eat it, this is the place.
Sometimes you just need to gaze into the eyes of your mate over some good, solid, French food and say those immortal words: you gonna drink that moules marinere sauce or can I have a bit? This place also does, joy of joys, RACLETTE. Order a day ahead.
In 2016 I went to Japan for the first time, and this place was the closest I’ve come to finding somewhere even close to the low-key but delicious comfort food that is Okonomiyaki. One of my favourite places to meet a friend for dinner, but isn’t the one for big groups. The truly amazing thing is the location: tucked away behind the London Eye.
Most “things to do in London” lists on the internet are terrible.
Have you seen them? The ones always recommending afternoon tea at the Wolseley and that you queue up with all the tourists to take a little spin on the London Eye?
Guys. Come on.
We’re in this beautiful, weird, stupid, expensive, ugly, graffitied, Victorian-terraced, high rise, opulent, ornate, Georgian, glass-fronted, gilded, domed, Roman-walled city. There’s a lot more to do here that doesn’t involve the going to the bloody London Dungeons.
Here are some completely normal, average, achievable, nothing special and mostly free things that are worth doing in your spare time.
1. Park yourself and your mates in Granary Square
A little trot from Kings Cross Station is Granary Square, where there’s lot of seating (and shade if it’s summer and hot). The whole area is pretty decent – Coal Drops Yard has good shops, Granary Square has food, kids and dogs can faff about in the fountains. And if it starts raining, you can go see something immersive at Lightroom or get a negroni and eat a burrata to yourself at Caravan.
2. Make your way along Camden Passage up to the Camden Head
3. See cool science stuff in the Wellcome Collection
This place is cool in a niche, slightly off beat, vaguely human-body-ish way. And by that I mean one time I saw an exhibition featuring Victorian sex toys and another time I saw actual real life brains. It’s always free, sometimes there’s a queue on Saturdays for the main exhibit, but in the week it’s usually quiet. Also, great cafe.
4. Look at whales and dinosaur bones in the Natural History Museum
Yeah, I’m recommending the NHM even though it’s touristy because it’s actually very cool and they’ve got whales. Follow this advice, and go to the Queens Gate entrance. Be there when it opens and not a moment later. The dinosaurs move now! The paid exhibitions are quieter, the National Geographic Photographer of the Year is always an excellent shout. Good for a day off work.
5. Go find the dead people in the British Museum
Literally: enter in the British Museum. Bring a buggy because they’ll let you skip the queue. Locate the Egyptian mummies. Photograph the main hall. Leave the British Museum (via the gift shop).
6. Walk, drive, bike or horse ride around Richmond Park
If you want to gallop around on horses, I recommend Stag Lodge stables. Otherwise just bring your adult scooter. Or feet. Or bike. Whatever. It’s like going to Wales or some other part of the country with lots of grass. If you’re driving or need a place to meet mates, head to the Roehampton Gate, there’s a big car park, a cafe, and toilets. Cross the road, chuck down a blanket. Keep an eye out for deer.
7. Watch an extremely good documentary
The tiny Bertha Dochouse screening room at the Curzon in Bloomsbury only shows documentaries, and there are only 55 seats. Which in practice means great, interesting, often niche and award winning films and fewer people to loudly eat popcorn and accidentally forget to mute their phones.
8. Play darts and board games in a pub near Farringdon
Alright Farringdon isn’t short on pubs, but the Old China Hand is a great, independent, lesser known little spot where they have board games, a chess club on Wednesdays (7pm), and you can order pizza in if you need something to eat. It’s open Wednesday to Sunday, and closing times are, I hear, negotiable depending on how much fun everyone’s having that night.
9. Hire a bike and take it for a ride
Old favourite Santander bikes are still going strong, and dockless Lime bikes are pretty much everywhere at the moment. TFL’s got a fun little random route generator to get you started.
10. Find the terrapins in the Barbican Conservatory
This is one of those places I like to surprise people with every so often because what no one expects to find right in the middle of this big concrete monstrosity that is the Barbican is a very cool tropical garden full of massive plants, occasional fish, and the odd turtle. It’s open, well, when it’s open, and you’ll need to book (free) tickets in advance.
11. Play tennis indoors at Lee Valley Hockey and Tennis Centre
Indoor courts are gold dust around this city, so hiring one costs about £32.50 for an hour at Lee Valley. But if it’s not raining, they have outdoor courts too (£13). They’ll supply the racket and balls. All you need is one (or three) friends.
12. Walk from Victoria Park to Camden along the Regent’s Canal
Or any stretch of the Regent’s Canal, really. There are gazillions of places to just stop and eat along there, or you can hop off for food and coffee at Broadway Market. The canal towpath runs all the way from east to west, with a bit of a gap around street level near Kings Cross / Angel.
13. Have a nice long boozy lunch or daytime dinner at Dishoom
Oh god, Dishoom. Probably some of the most well known Indian restaurants in London (other than Tayaabs?) – but for good reason. The best time to avoid the queues is in the middle of the day, or breakfast time, or turn up bang on 6pm.
14. Wander along the Barbican High Walk and see Roman ruins
Hi, this is your daily reminder that this city is OLDand most of it isn’t in a museum yet. It’s just there, in Barbican, on the street, waiting for you and your little modern 21st century feet. Here’s a handy route and map.
15. Harass dogs on Hampstead Heath
…then once you’ve done that, get a cuppa tea and eat cake at in the cafe at Kenwood House.
17. Have a chilled pint right on the Thames in Limehouse
The Grapes in Limehouse is probably one of my favourite pubs, this ^ is the view from the little wooden terrace. It’s mega old, proper local, and they do a good fish and chips. Go at sunset, photograph the shit out of the Antony Gormley Sculpture.
18. Find yourself a good travel book in Daunt
Straight to the Marylebone High Street branch, folks. It’s this Edwardian wooden book cave that specialises in travel books. The staff are very good. Plus, if you don’t have a Daunt book bag yet, are you really a Londoner? And while you’re there…
19. Cafe-hop along Marylebone High Street
Shop ‘n’ walk along the quieter, posher alternative to Oxford Street. Then go find The Gunmakers and have a pint.
20. Watch a film (with wine) in the Garden Cinema
This is a beautiful little independent cinema near Covent Garden with a reasonable membership, mega varied programme of new and old films, a good bar, and lots of member events.
21. Befriend pigs and donkeys at a city farm
Lower your expectations because, you know, this ain’t Yorkshire. But there’s city farms in Mudchute, Stepney, Spitalfields, Hackney Road, Surrey Docks, and Kentish Town. Contrary to popular belief, kids are not a pre-requisite for entry.
22. Do some stuff at the Barbican Centre
Coming in strong with another entry for the Barbican Centre – which is just generally a good spot if you’re at a loose end: there’s free wifi, cafes, free exhibitions, obvs loads of classical music and stuff, a library, and a cinema which you can bring your baby to and even does screenings just for kids on the weekends.
23. Have a quick peek and a drink in Wilton’s Music Hall
There are loads of ramen places in London now, but the original Bone Daddies in Peter Streethas always been my go-to. The food comes quickly, you won’t queue long if it’s outside of main dinner or lunch times, and communal tables and window seats are extra good if you’re rolling solo. They’ll supply the bibs.
25. Spend an hour looking at excellent photography
The Photographer’s Gallerywas London’s first – and it’s got exhibitions across three floors. You’ll find it just off Oxford Street which is good if you were like “hey let’s go shopping” and instantly regretted it. It’s open late on Thursdays, and is free on Fridays after 5pm.
26. Read the slightly depressing plaques in Postman’s Park
Sod All Star Lanes, it’s bloody extortionate. The cheap, original, far mire fun bowling alleys are this one in Queensway, and Rowan’s in Finsbury Park. Although if you’re central, Bloomsbury Lanes is good if you’re a group of 6 or fancy ending the night with some karaoke and an 80s night.
28. Get an excellent view of London from Ally Pally
That’s Alexandra Palace, for the non-believers. While we’re on the subject, the views from Primrose Hill, Greenwich Royal Observatory, and Parliament Hill are also worth getting slightly out of breath for.
29. See a beautiful Japanese garden in Holland Park
When the Olympics finished, it left behind its massive swimming pool, a mountain bike course, loads of walking tracks, tennis courts, white water rafting, and a velodrome where you can just go and sit and watch the cycling and have a coffee. Just FYI.
31. Look around the free exhibitions at the British Library
The BL always has some pretty interesting free exhibitions downstairs, there’s also space just to sit quietly and have a cuppa in the foyer. You can also become a member for free, and go into the reading rooms which are probably the only mobile phone free space left in London.
32. Say hi to the giraffes without actually going into London Zoo
Walk around to the north end of Regent’s Park by the canal, and as well as many dogs, ye shall also be rewarded with a few long necked horses aka giraffes, often seen peeking over the fence.
33. Saunter down Roupell Street in Waterloo
…aka the most London-looking street in London. It’s a beaut. Don’t even think about not sauntering. This road was made to saunter along, like a Victorian gent.
35. Walk through the City when it’s completely dead
You know where’s really nice on a Sunday? Moorgate, Farringdon, Smithfield, Barbican, Bank, St Pauls, Fleet Street, Cannon Street, all round there. It’s quiet. Everything’s closed. There are no suits. Just the odd lost, slightly bewildered looking tourist, the occasional branch of Pret, and a fair few pigeons. Bring your camera. Chuck on a good podcast. Stop in one of the little hidden city parks for a snack.
36. Get on a bus to anywhere
Yeah I know – buses, shut up about the buses. But seriously: get on one, pay £1.75, sit on the top deck, preferably at the front. Now get on a few more: for the next hour, it’s free! Some of them literally follow the same route as the big sightseeing companies. Plus, spend enough time on buses and you’ll develop a superhuman (/cab driver-like) ability to find your way around London without looking at CityMapper once.
37. Sit on Southbank and people watch
Next time you’re up early, grab a cuppa and plant yourself down on one of the big stone blocks outside the Southbank Centre. Or, if it’s raining, go inside the Southbank Centre (or Royal Festival Hall). You’ll find a load of spare tables and seats in one of London’s best free public spaces. Sit there. Drink your tea. Eat a croissant. Watch all manner of people walk past. They also do a lot of free events, especially for kids. Have a lovely day.
38. Take the tube to Greenwich, and get the Thames Clipper back.
Why does getting a boat home from anywhere somehow make you feel like you earn £100k more than you actually do? Even if that place is along the Thames and the boat is sponsored by Uber? Idk. Anyway, go to Greenwich, because it’s far enough away to warrant the journey home (unless you live in Greenwich, in which case, go somewhere else) and in the right light has this kind of film set quality about it, and then feel the warm, wealthy glow of casually announcing to anyone who can hear you: sorry, I must dash, I’ve got to catch my boat.
39. Shop in a quiet place
Oxford Street’s a bit frenetic for me on a Saturday. But One New Change (again, in the city) tends to be completely dead at the weekend. There’s not a huge amount of shops, and it’s no Westfield, but there is a Zara, H&M, and also an Aesop. And did I mention the lack of people?
40. Stay in bed
It’s a big city, we live busy lives, you work hard. Have a nap. You deserve it.
Got some other normal suggestions? Chuck them in the comments below.
If you’re not familiar, Open House is a yearly event that most Londoners usually hear about three weeks after it happens. At which point, they’re like “oh god, yeah! I always mean to go to that, is it good?” and you’re like “well it’s meant to be, but I don’t know because I always forget it’s on” and then you both agree to go next year and, that, my friends, is generally the end of that.
But weirdly a lot of people do remember it’s happening without having to tie themselves to volunteering and thus signing up for weekly e-mails that effectively say, and I’m paraphrasing here, YOU HAVE COMMITTED TO SOMETHING, YOU FLAKY BASTARD: DO NOT FORGET TO TURN UP. In fact, not only do people remember, but they arrive outside the Gherkin at 5am on a Sunday and form an orderly queue.
And by far the best thing about volunteering – apart from getting to skip the queues, having lots of people be very nice and polite and smiley to you for three hours, and being mistaken for someone who could answer questions like “what are the three crowns on the company’s crest symbolic of?” and “how did they light the rooms in here before electricity?” – was that I got to have a nose around Draper’s Hall before everyone else arrived.
Much like myself, Draper’s Hall had just undergone its yearly wash and was looking absolutely banging.
After my shift ended and I’d been fed (seriously, big up Draper’s Hall – that lunch was A+) I set out to visit as many buildings as possible, with the side aim of seeing how many people I could irritate by brandishing my volunteer’s priority badge and walking past them to the front of the queue (answer: at least 4).
I started small, with St Boltoph’s in Aldgate.
Then headed down to Lower Thames Street to Custom House.
Then because I mega like really really old stuff, I went across the road where there were actual, real life, extremely ancient remains of some Roman baths.
Did you know London had Roman baths?
I did not.
But mate, I shit you not. Underneath the city in what is otherwise pretty much a car park, let’s be honest, there they are. Roman Baths:
Next stop was another one of the livery halls.
This time, Apothecaries Hall. Where the outside had just been re-painted in an excellent shade of cobalt blue.
The inside wasn’t too shabby, either.
And if you were walking down Liverpool Street over the weekend and wondered what the massive queue outside the Andaz Hotel was all about, it was all in aid of this:
After that, it was about half past four and, bloody hell, my feet were starting to ache.
That’s the bit no one tells you about Open House: you end up walking for miles and standing a lot and eventually will zone in on anything remotely resembling a seat, even if that seat is a ceremonial chair in a Masonic Temple.
But by this point in the day, instead of feeling well tired, I’d really got into it.
Aside from being able to get inside so many extremely good buildings, it felt like a good excuse to just roam the City taking photos.
So, here’s a truth bomb.
I usually feel pretty self conscious taking photos in public. Which is weird because these days photos and blogging are pretty much part of the same deal.
The fact is I’ll often see things I want to take photos of around London, but for whatever reason – either there’s too many people around, or I feel awkward standing there trying to get the right settings, or I just feel embarrassed about getting my camera out in front of people – I’ll let the moment slide by.
But not today, bitches.
I think it was partly because everyone else at Open House was doing it – Gorillapods ‘n’ all – and taking their time, and 90% of people who were around had cameras slung round their necks.
Whatever it was, there were a few occasions where I just stood on the street snapping away without really caring who was watching.
Two men on a bench were having a good old stare when I was taking this one, which normally would have made me rush it and shuffle on. But on Sunday, I gave them a little wave instead.
The nosy little bas–
And alright, it was also easier because the Square Mile’s verrrrry quiet at the weekend.
It was nearing 5pm when I found Leadenhall Market pretty much empty, so I stuck around to make the most of that.
Then I wound my way back to Liverpool Street station past all the high rise offices and glassy Shard wannabes, via that weird building with all its pipes on the outside.
The Open House closing party didn’t start til 6pm, but by 5 o’clock I was pretty knackered. My first Open House had done me in.
So in another world first, I actually passed on the offer of free booze and went home.
After that, it was about half past four and, bloody hell, my feet were starting to ache.
