Author: She Loves London

  • Where To Meet Mates In The Evening If You Don’t Fancy The Pub

    Where To Meet Mates In The Evening If You Don’t Fancy The Pub

    Ever get that thing where you just don’t fancy the pub?

    It’s probably an “I’m 32 now” thing, but occasionally, you just want to meet a mate in the evening and sit and have a catch up without getting smashed and waking up on Tuesday morning feeling like the world has thrown its heaviest, sharpest buildings on your head. You want a cup of tea. You don’t want to be out too late. And instead of spending £30 on a nice, nutritious dinner, you want a huge slab of cake.

    Either that or you’re gasping but your mate’s pregnant, or running a marathon, or doesn’t drink, or you both just want to see if the rumours are true and if it is indeed possible to socialise in London without going to the pub.

    Look, it happens. And when it does, here’s where I usually end up.

    Yum Chaa – Berwick Street, Soho

    This tea shop has a few cafes around London, but the Soho branch is open til 9:30pm. They do good loose leaf blends that actually taste how they smell, which is a minor miracle, and they also do very good cake. And if you can’t see any spaces from the window, there’ll probably be seats downstairs.

    Wellcome Collection cafe – Euston Road

    Hands down one of my favourite museums in London. The Wellcome’s exhibitions are always good, and free, and then there’s the added bonus of a nice cafe that does big pots of loose leaf tea. So go see the Modern Nature exhibit that’s on at the moment, then abandon everything for the cake. On Thursdays, it’s open until 10pm.

    Barbican Centre – Barbican

    Another fairly overlooked public space which is also on my London Good Bits list. The Barbican has a big public area and the whole place is open until 11pm. There’s tables, lots of places to sit, and cafes scattered around if you fancy a cuppa. And if you get bored of talking to your mate, there’s free wifi so you can look at your phone instead, a cinema, exhibitions and galleries ‘n’ stuff.

    The lesser spotted Sunbathing Londoners in their canal-side habitat

    City Road Basin – Regent’s Canal (Summer)

    There’s this really nice spot between Angel and DeBeauvoir on the Regent’s Canal which a bangin’ spot for meeting a mate if it’s sunny. You’ll know when you get there because you’ll see half naked people sprawled across the lock in the late evening. A bit further along the towpath there’s benches to sit and chill on, and if it rains, walk up to Proud East in Haggerston or the Towpath cafe.

    Tate Modern – Southbank

    The ideal situation here is to take your mate who’s also a member and can get you both into the member’s rooms upstairs for mega views of St Paul’s. Failing that, the Turbine Hall is free and the other galleries are open til 10pm on Friday and Saturday. Fill ya boots.

    Euphorium Bakery – 202 Upper Street, Islington

    This is my go-to cafe when I need to get some writing done after work. There are two branches on Upper Street, and the one nearest Highbury and Islington is open til 9pm for all your quiche, Tea Pigs, big tables and free wifi needs. Pro tip: the big sofa’s at the back.

    Curzon – Soho / Bloomsbury

    I’ve already banged on about how excellent Bloomsbury is generally. But the good thing about this and the other Curzon cinemas is there’s a bar / cafe area in each one, which are quite nice places to sit and / or listen to people bitch about the films they just watched. I don’t know how late they’re open, but I’m guessing it’s until the last film. And members get 15% off food and drink.

    Royal Festival Hall – Southbank Centre

    This place is a bit like the Barbican: you’ll know it for events and music and probably the rooftop bar in summer, but inside the different levels have cafes and foyers and public spaces where you can sit without having to buy anything. Also good for work meetings ‘n’ stuff. Open til 10:30pm.

    Granary Square – Kings Cross (Summer)

    Weather dependent – although to be fair there’s loads of cafes around here now you can duck into when it inevitably starts pissing it down. Granary Square usually has chairs dotted about, also fountains to run through like the child you actually are, big screens when Wimbledon’s on, and in summer they put AstroTurf down on the steps by the canal so you can sit there too.

    Know of any other places where you can just sit and chill without getting completely smashed? Share the wealth. My liver thanks you. 

       

  • Here’s What They Do After Work In Switzerland. Sorry In Advance For Ruining Your Day.

    Here’s What They Do After Work In Switzerland. Sorry In Advance For Ruining Your Day.

    One of the best things about working in London is finishing work.

    That’s when everyone looks at each other over their computer screens at 5.20pm with a quizzical expression which roughly translates as: pub? as if going straight home was ever going to be an option.

    Of course you’re not going to go straight home. It’s summer, which means it’s probably raining, and a little bit chilly, so naturally you’re going to drink beer outside the pub until you’re pissed and the sun goes down, then you’ll abandon the pavements and carry on inside.

    This Friday ritual is about as London as its gets.

    And for years it never really occurred to me that it might not happen everywhere else in the world. What do you do after work? I’d ask my emigrated friends. Why wouldn’t you go to the pub? In fact, where are all the pubs? What do you do after work if not proceed, with your colleagues, to the pub?

    Then I went to Bern in Switzerland, where they do not go to the pub.

    And to be honest, I can sort of see why.

    This is Bern. Say hello to Bern.

    Bern is the capital of Switzerland.

    This is something I found out five years ago when my sister moved there. Before that I just assumed the capital was Zurich, much like everyone else. Well, it isn’t. The capital of Switzerland is Bern, which explains the slightly ostentatious bear pit, the volume of traditional hats bobbing around, and the city centre’s unnecessarily giant sized clock.

    I’ve been there a few times at different times of year. In winter, the centre of town after work is pretty much just hoards of people heading towards the main train station with skis.

    But summer: mate. This lot have got it nailed.

    Swiss man and dog nailing summer.

    Like most things in Switzerland, everything in Bern looks like it was custom built to make you jealous.

    And likewise, the Aare is exactly the sort of river you’d want running through your city, in that you won’t find the bones of 13th century sailors, horse-sized rats or dysentery lurking in the depths.

    Even its mildly unsettling fast flow and the vague threat of death-by-grates if you don’t get out in time at the end is mitigated by the fact that you can see the bottom, something even the Serpentine hasn’t been able to offer swimmers since about 1859.

    Londoners: that water colour you’re seeing there is “turquoise blue”

    Bern’s river is so good that people go there after work instead of going to the pub or straight home to annoy their partners, parents, or kids.

    Instead they go to the Aare, strip off, chuck all their clothes into a dry bag, or just leave them by the side for literally no one to steal, and float down at the end of the day.

    And if it’s been a particularly tough afternoon, they’ll hire a flotilla of large inflatable rafts, fill a barrel with booze, assemble their mates and do it that way instead.

    Which is why it’s not at all unusual to see a procession of floating flamingos, sharks, dogs in life jackets, and occasional unicorns whizzing past you while you take selfies and chill.

    But yes, good question:

    what if you don’t want to swim because your WFS (Work From Switzerland) day has left you tired?

    This is Switzerland, so naturally the river banks are also idyllic mini beaches of calm where you can lie down and just, y’know, listen to your neighbour’s bangin’ Jamie xx / Caribou tune selection, put your bottle of wine in the water to chill, and nip in for a gentle paddle or just sit on a rock.

    The whole thing is very much better than the pub.

    Especially if there is also a dog.

    So there you have it, proof that Switzerland is basically wiping the floor with the quality of life you enjoy in London and oh yeah, lol, they’re all paying less tax, too.

    Enjoy your trip to the pub after work on Friday, guys. I know I certainly will!

    (River Thames: your move.)



  • The Good Bits of London: The Barbican

    The Good Bits of London: The Barbican

    There are some very good looking places in London.

    They’re what makes London better than New York. They’re parks, and streets, and houses, and landmarks and buildings that are so inherently London they don’t so much catch your attention, as grab the eyeballs from your face and turn you around.

    These places refuse to give you a choice: in their presence, you can look nowhere else.

    St Paul’s flaunting its curves, as per

    It’s something in the colour of the stone, or the detailing under the windowsills, the slant of the glass; the beige grouting between grey-brown walls, exposed foundations, tall ceilings, domed roofs and faded ghost signs advertising a service long defunct.

    And once they’ve got you, they beckon you closer like a wizened old woman, they have stories to tell; these parts of London that have been there so long it’s like they grew up out of the ground.

    So there’s those places.

    And then there’s the Barbican.

    Image by .Martin. Creative Commons
    You beauty. (Photo credit: .Martin. creative commons)

    Like St Paul’s, The Barbican is so London it’s got its own tube station, and so un-London that when you come out of it and see a grey looking underpass flanked by the great looming towers of the estate, you sort of wonder why you arrived.

    The most obvious reason would be for the art and music.

    The Barbican Centre is where the London Symphony Orchestra lives, and also where you’ll go to hear, among other things, the sort of music you’ll be very into if your idea of a good gig is one where you only have to stand up once, and that’s to wave your Union Jack flag.

    But the Barbican isn’t just somewhere to drop your parents off for a few hours over Christmas.

    It’s not even that bad looking, once you get a bit closer.

    In fact, before you get inside, it’s actually pretty cool.

    It’s BYO flag

    The best way to see all the cool stuff outside is when you’re searching for the entrance.

    The Barbican manages to be everywhere you look and nowhere at all, so it’s entirely normal to spend at least half an hour working out how to get in.

    If you go one way you’ll eventually find a sign that says “Barbican Cinema” and they’ll direct you to the Silk Street doors over the road, and if you go the other other way you’ll find a sign that says “High Walk“, and, more out of exasperation than anything else, think sod it, let’s give it a try. 

    The remains of Old Stuff.

    You’ll especially like the High Walk if you’ve lived in London for so long that all the old stuff has started to blend into the background, and a thousand year old landmark is merely a normal thing you see on the way to work.

    And when you reach that point, it really helps to see the old stuff set against the backdrop of what was once named the Ugliest Building in London in 2003.

    That’s what happens on the Barbican High Walk: you look down, and there, below the rows of identical brown balconies and towering office blocks – are the remains of a bombed out houses from the war (above), a the Medieval church, and a section of the Roman City Wall so old it actually hurts my brain to imagine the time it was built.

    Image: Matt Kieffer, Creative Commons
    Oh. That’s better. St Giles and London Wall (Photo: Matt Kieffer)

    The other thing you see are flats.

    Lots of flats. Flats that no one ever comes out of. Flats where the only signs of life are the brightly coloured flowers hanging off each and every balcony.

    And then you start hearing the splashing of water, and you peer over the other side and you’re like – where actually am I?

    Where has this alternative universe appeared from?

    Why is there a large green lake, complete with water features and fountains, and plants, and cool little walkways in the water, and a very pretty white church?

    And why can’t I see all this from the road?

    Once you get inside, the Barbican’s got most things you’d expect from one of the largest performance art spaces in Europe: concert halls, a cinema, a few libraries, photography galleries, art exhibitions, and somewhere to get a cup of tea.

    So at this point, we should probably give some credit to whoever decided that what this place really needed was some terrapins, cacti and exotic trees.

    If, like me, you often want to see plants without being outside and getting cold, the Conservatory is open on certain Sundays, and is the best place to remind yourself that away from the Thames, there are actually bodies of water in London that can support life like fish.

    The easiest way to tell if a place in London is one of your favourites is whether it makes you do your commute on your days off.

    And I have to admit that recently, this is what’s started happening. The Barbican has crept up on me. So now, if I want to do some writing, I’ll nip off to the Barbican instead of a cafe. I’ll get the bus through the most ancient bit of London, go along the High Walk, and get a table upstairs inside.

    Because that’s the other good thing: as well as everything else that goes on there, it’s a public space. The WIFI’s free, it’s open all the time, and you can spend as long as you want writing or reading without having to guiltily avoid buying another cup of tea.

    And say what you want about its looming stance and massive towers, that makes it a very good bit of London for me.